The
following article written by George Howell describes an
ambitious and critical educational project in Brazil that
aims to demonstrate to farmers the economic benefits of
focusing on quality.
The project has been a success for both Brazilian
coffee producers and specialty coffee importers.
It should serve as a model for other coffee producing
nations.
Model
Farms Program
It
was determined by the NPSC that a Model Farms Program
would have the best chance to improve quality and thereby
the economic conditions of small-to-medium coffee growers.
Again: In Sul de Minas, where
there are over 24,000 small farmers, the terrain is often
hilly, labor very expensive, and the weather often uncooperative
during the harvest.
Most farms use very primitive processing. Yet quality
potential of this region is excellent, given the proper
controls.
The
program would endeavor to demonstrate the “return-on-investment
potential” and to provide a field methodology for incrementally
developing sustained quality within the farmer’s resources.
We decided that to rigidly target the US Specialty
Market (or even any Specialty Market!) was self-defeating,
especially where the small farmer was concerned.
The objective was to raise the quality bar each
year through affordable incremental investments (so long
as the improvements proved profitable!).
Each
model farm’s production was to be recorded by lot, by
cup quality, and by price received against the benchmark
Brazilian “internal market price”.
All costs, including depreciation, were to be tracked
by a professional agronomist (Guy Carvalho) hired by the
Brazil Gourmet Project.
The first year for each farm was to be the one
before improvements had been made.
The
Model Farms Program would attract farmers by directly
benefiting participants with expertise in what improvements
to make and how to make them on an individual-by-individual
basis at no added cost to them.
A very exciting feature of the Model Farms Program is its potential benefit
to all farming areas, regardless of Specialty Market
Potential.
The working experience with participating farms
was to be the basis for writing a Quality Control Handbook.
The NPSC determined that Brazil’s share of funding for The Gourmet Project
would be earmarked for the Model Farms Program.
If there is some concern that auction prices for a few spectacular coffees
might generate unrealistic farmer expectations or be
dismissed by the vast majority of coffee farmers as
not relevant to them, then the Model Farms Program serves
as the corrective.
It sets out to establish firm quantitative foundations
for each farmer to achieve the best results possible
according to that farm’s potential.
It
was relatively easy to sign up farmers planning to make
quality-enhancing improvements.
At times, in fact, I feared that Project resources
would be over-stretched by the number of farmers wanting
to participate.
Each farm was an added cost.
The great travel distances between some of the
farms could easily compound these costs.
The HPSC, however, made it clear that number and
diversity of farms were important to the Model Farms Program’s
success. Experience
has borne out its wisdom.
The
number of participating farms settled down to ten from
three states, representing four coffee regions, after
initially rising to fourteen farms in four states.
Eight farms actually made improvements.
All
the Model Farms produced BICA the first year.
The eight farms then made improvements before the
second harvest year leading to differentiated qualities.
These separations ranged from pulped naturals,
BICA and sweepings to the wider range of pulped naturals,
naturals, greens, sweepings and residue - depending on
improvements made.
The
Gourmet Project’s first report has just come out at the
end of March 2000.
It reviews results from the first and second year.
I have not had enough time to carefully review
it in detail.
The
Model Farms Report compares actual prices paid in the
second year for differentiated 60-kg bags of each farm’s
lots to the same day’s BICA price. The difference is called the differential.
An example follows:
Fazenda Passeio has 54 producing hectares of coffee. In year one it produced
92% BICA, 6% sweepings and 2% triage.
The second year, after 35,800R of improvements,
it produced 37% pulped natural, 34% natural, 15% green,
12% sweepings and 2% triage. Its yield was an amazing
70.2 60-kg bags per hectare.
In the second year, lot #1 consisted of 200 bags of natural floaters, which
sold for the BICA price of R216 per 60-kg bag. The differential
was zero. Lot
#9, on the other hand, consisted of 200 bags of pulped
natural coffee and sold for R238 while BICA for that day
was selling at R182 per bag.
The differential was R56.
The farm produced 43 lots in total.
The differential paid, when all lots are included,
was R13.43 per 60-kg bag.
Once all costs are tabulated, including maintenance, interest and depreciation
for all investments, results show that Fazenda Passeio
made R943.25 more per hectare than if it had not made
the improvements.
Comparing numbers further, profitability comes
out at 12% better than it would have been, had improvements
not been made and all lots sold as BICA (with interest,
depreciation and interest for relevant investments removed).
With
the first year of post-investment harvests in, results
are promising. While more time is needed to analyze the
report which has only just come out the following initial
observations have been made by the Project’s agronomist,
Guy Carvalho:
·
Processing
costs tended to decrease while investment costs increased.
Other costs were unaffected.
Overall costs increased slightly, which
confirms the need for better product remuneration.
·
All
eight farms showed improved differentials per bag comparable
to Fazenda Passeio, varying from 5% to 10%.
·
Success with the premium depended a lot on when and
through what channels the coffees were sold. Some farmers had better connections
than others had.
·
Farms that pulped a larger proportion of cherry were
the ones that obtained larger average premiums.
·
Profitability increased at all the properties, even
if an overall increase in production cost was observed;
the added value to the product guaranteed the profits.
·
Profitability increases comparing BICA against differentiated
coffee production varied from 10% to 45%.
·
Investments in quality improvement need to be planned
according to production capacity; investments that are
not proportional to production area will bring lower returns.
The eight farms that made improvements are:
#
|
Farm
|
Region
|
Ha.
|
Investment
|
R
|
Diff.
|
1
|
Faz.
Luma
|
Cerrado
|
66
|
Density
Separator
|
6,000
|
7%
|
2
|
Faz.
Passeio
|
Sulminas
|
61
|
Carts,Pulper,Dryer,Structure
|
35,800
|
7%
|
3
|
Faz.
San Antônio
|
Sulminas
|
7
|
Density
Separator, Pulper, Structure
|
17,000
|
8%
|
4
|
Sitio
Renascença
|
Sulminas
|
12
|
Density
Separator,Pulper, Structure
|
9,000
|
7%
|
5
|
Faz.
Cachoeira
|
Sulminas
|
175
|
?
– Investments made year before -Interest, Depreciation
included
|
?
|
5%
|
6
|
Faz.
Paraiso
|
Sulminas
|
50
|
?
– Investments made year before
-Interest,
Depreciation included
|
?
|
10%
|
7
|
Sitio
Tiki
|
Sulminas
|
3
|
Cart,
Pulper, Structure
|
?
mostly hand made
|
8%
|
8
|
Faz.
Canto do Rio
|
Bahia
|
75
|
Mill
Shed, Mill Machinery, Patio, Pulper Shed
|
48,800
|
11%
|
It
was too early for Model Farms to produce exemplary quality
coffees, i.e. Competition winners, but in time this may
well come to pass. Nevertheless Illycaffè purchased lots produced by some of these
farms – a clear endorsement of Model farms quality potential.
Finally,
a Quality Production Handbook, based on the Model Farms
experience, has been written in Portuguese.
I am scheduled to receive a copy next week.
The
Model Farms Program requires several more years to become
really meaningful.
Standardizing the reports and determining more
fully the benchmarks by which to measure and judge success
will be the next stage.
Members of the BSCA (Brazil Specialty Coffee Association)
and other prominent people in the Brazilian coffee trade
are deeply interested in continuing the program and extending
it to other farms in other regions.
Financing for this is being discussed.
Producer
education must underpin the Model Farms Program and the
Exemplary Coffee Program.
Producers must be an informed group that is able
to capitalize on the lessons, opportunities and models
produced by the Brazil Gourmet Project’s two complementary
programs.
The
Education Program
Cupping
workshops for farmers is a promising new venue. In 1998 Marcelo Vieira set up two cupping workshops for farmers
and their cuppers.
The first was held in Alfenas, Sul de Minas on
August 15, 1998 and the second on December 9, 1998 in
Patrocinio, Cerrado.
About 10 farmers attended the first one and about
25 the second. These
workshops were very successful.
They clearly generated a lot of enthusiasm by providing
a forum for farmers to compare their coffees in a noncommercial,
low competitive environment.
They encourage the farmer to cup and compare his
or her coffees to those of others in a professional setting.
The seminars allowed everyone to come closer to
a genuine consensus of what quality really was. The second
session started at 9 AM and did not end until well into
the evening. This
workshop concept needs further development.
The
Brazil Gourmet Project attended as many farmer conferences
as possible in order to present educational seminars about
quality markets and quality production.
In 1998, for instance Marcelo Vieira and I gave
the following presentations:
1.
Patrocinio,
Cerrado Region, Minas Gerais - May 13, 1998
·
Gourmet
Coffee Project – Marcelo Vieira
·
Specialty
Coffee in the USA
- George Howell
2.
Pinhal,
Mogiana Region, Sao Paulo – August 12, 1998
·
Recommendations
to the Grupo Tecnico de Certificação de Qualidade e Origem
(Technical Group of Certification of Quality and Origin)
·
Gourmet
Coffee Project – Marcelo Vieira
·
Specialty
Coffee in the USA
3.
Alfenas,
Sulminas Region, Minas Gerais – Sul Minas Association
of Coffee Growers – August 14, 1998
·
Gourmet
Coffee Project
·
Specialty
Coffee in the USA
4.
Sao
Paulo, Sao Paulo – December 3, 1998
·
Coffee
Shops – Ideal Channel of Distribution for Specialty Coffees;
- to The Coffee Roasters’ Association of Sao Paulo.
Twofold purpose: increase credibility, develop
Specialty Market in Brazil to bolster demand for fine
qualities.
5.
Franca,
Alta Mogiana Region, Sao Paulo – December 4, 1998
·
Gourmet
Coffee Project
·
Specialty
Coffee in the USA
(My
lectures were presented in Portuguese PowerPoint in Brazil. I spoke in English while being simultaneously translated into
Portuguese)
The
key points we developed were:
1.
What
The Gourmet Project is, - what its objectives are
2.
Explain
our focus on the US Specialty Market
3.
The
root of Specialty Coffee is quality
4.
Definition
of quality and its effect on prices
5.
Quality
must be very high and consistent
6.
Brazil
naturals and pulped naturals (semi washed) are ideal for
elegant espresso
7.
US
Specialty espresso bars are expanding rapidly, a great
opportunity for Brazil
8.
The
proactive role of The Gourmet Project in the USA for quality
Brazil coffee
Marcelo
Vieira and I feel certain these seminars were a highly
significant tool for preparing farmer willingness to consider
change. While
the real world presses all but the most secure and visionary
farmers towards expediencies that are obstacles to sustained
quality, nevertheless - seeds are being planted which
can, in time, bear fruit.
The positive results from the Competition, the
Auction, and the Model Farms study, coupled with the Quality
Production Handbook, all confirm our presentations’ theses. Our words have been backed by the first wave of actions.
It is the cumulative, coordinated effect of all
these efforts that counts.
Source:
Final Brazil Gourmet Project Report 2000 by
George Howell
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